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COPYRIGHT DEPOSFT. 



ER 
OK 



BY 

FREDERIC W. LA CROIX 

Advertising Manager of 
Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. 

A practical and descriptive exhibit of the leather industry 

prepared especially for the use of merchants of leather 

goods, schools, and students of leather 

and allied subjects. 



Copyright 1917 by 
Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. 



CONTENTS 



Introduction — Notes on Leather Manufacture 



Page 
1 



Leather in Process — Specimens of Shoe Leathers 

Shoe Upper Leathers, No. 1 — Calf and Cowhide 

Shoe Upper Leathers, No. 2 — Miscellaneous Skins 

Sole, Harness and Belting Leathers 

Glove Leathers .--..-. 

Fancy Leathers, No. 1 — Bookbinding and Light Leathers 6 

Fancy Leathers, No. 2 -Upholstery and Heavy Leathers 7 



15 



Published by 
PFISTER & VOGEL LEATHER CO. 
^ Milwaukee, Wis. 

©C! 447008? 






-^Vq 



! 

\ 

15 1917 \ 

J 





Preface 



THE many requests for information about leather that are constantly received by the advertising department of 
the Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. from merchants of leather goods and teachers and students in schools and col- 
leges prompted the publication a few years ago of "How Leather Is Tanned." This pamphlet in a few mimeo- 
graphed pages undertook to tell in a simple, concise fashion the essential facts in the manufacture of leather and 
to fill in some measure the almost total lack of descriptive, non-technical works on tanning. 

Though a great many copies of "How Leather Is Tanned" have been .supplied to interested persons, it has 
been evident that it went only part way with regard to instruction in leather and its manufacture. The common 
experience seems to have been that it is difficult to get a clear grasp of the subject without the opportunity of in- 
specting typical samples of leather in connection with the reading. It is as an aid in this respect that "The Leather 
Specimen Book" has been prepared. Used in connection with "How Leather Is Tanned" it aims to give a knowl- 
edge of leathers and the process of tanning sufficiently complete for all purposes not connected with practical tan- 
ning. 

On account of the almost unlimited variety in methods of finishing leather it has been possible to .show 
only the most common and representative types of finishes. In using this book to identify leather it should be 
kept in mind that a tanned skin may be embossed and finished so as to have its true nature totally disguised. 

Acknowledgment for much valuable assistance in the preparation of this book is due to Mr. James Warbasse, 
Editor of the "Glovers' Review"; The Daniel Hays Co., Gloversville, N. Y. ; Hess, Harburger & Drucker, New 
York; Mr. G. T. Leavitt of Eagle-Ottowa Leather Co., Chicago; Benj. N. Moore & Sons' Co., Boston; Mr. W. C. 
Bliedung of O. C. Hansen Mfg. Co., Milwaukee ; A. C. Lawrence Leather Co., Boston ; and to the manufacturing 
and chemistry departments of the Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. 

THE AUTHOR. 



Introduction 



The Raw Material 



The great variety in leathers 
that is met with in beginning 
the study of this subject is very confusing until it is realized 
that most of this difference exists only in the treatment of 
the surface by embossing, coloring, or finishing. The kinds 
of skins available are restricted within a small range, and 
the methods of tanning follow along a few general lines. 

Leather may for the purpose of this discussion be classi- 
fied in four different ways: 1, by the kind of skin; 2, by the 
tannage; 3, by the method of finishing; and 4, by the use for 
which it is intended. 

1. Most of the leather in common use is made from the 
hides and skins of domestic animals, those of Cattle being 
by far the most important, followed by Goatskins, Sheep- 
skins, HorsemUcs, Pigskins, and in a small measure Dog- 
skins. Many skins of wild animals, principally those of the 
Kangaroo, Deer. Peccary, Alligator, Seal, Walrus, and Buf- 
falo are in fairly general use. Cattle hides are used chiefly 
for shoe upper and sole leathers, harness, belting, upholstery, 
bag and case leathers, and to some degree in bookbinding. 
Goatskins are used for shoes, gloves, bookbinding, and fancy 
leathers. Sheepskins are used for shoe linings, gloves, and 
the greater part of the fancy leathers. Horsehides are used 
for shoes and utility gloves. Pigskins are used for the inner 
parts of shoes, utility gloves, bookbinding, fancy leathers, 
and saddle seats. Dogskins find limited application in glove 
leathers. Kangaroo is used for fine shoe leathers. Deer- 
skins, known as Buckskins, are used for both shoes and 
gloves Peccary for utility gloves, Alligator for bag and fancy 
leathers, Seal for bags, bookbinding, and fancy leathers, 
Walrus for jewellers' polishing wheels, and Buffalo for heavy 
soles. 



Tannages 



2. Tannages are divided into two main 
classes, the Mineral and the Vegetable. The 
mineral tannages are subdivided into the Chrome and Alum. 
In the former the leather is tanned with basic chromic sul- 



phate and the tannage set with soda ash. The chrome tan- 
nage is used for the majority of shoe leathers, for utility and 
some dress gloves, and in a limited way for sole and belting 
leather. Alum-tanning, also known as tawing, is done with 
sulphate of alumina and common salt. This is the principal 
tannage for fine glove leathers. 

The vegetable tannages are limited only by the number of 
plants, barks, and other vegetable substances which yield 
tannins in sufficient quantities for commercial use. In prac- 
tice only a few tannins offering the advantages of cheapness, 
large supply, and greater suitability are used. Hemlock and 
Oak Bark liquors and extracts separately or in. combination 
are used more than any other vegetable tannins. Most sole 
and belting leather, practically all upholstery, harness, bag, 
strap and case leathers, and some shoe ,nd ' okbinding 
leathers are tanned with Hemlock or Oak or both. Sumac 
is the principal tanning material for bookbinding leathers, on 
account of its giving a light-colored leather that is resistant 
to light and decay. Gall-nuts, Myrobalans, Divi-divi, and 
Oakwood are also used in bookbinding leathers. Valonia, 
and Chestnut Oak Extract are used for Sole Leather in con- 
nection with Oak and Hemlock. Quebracho is used in vari- 
ous leathers, often with Hemlock and Oak. Gambier and 
Palmetto are used in many of the softer leathers for shoes, 
gloves, etc. Some leathers are tanned with a mixture of 
three or four different vegetable materials as may be neces- 
sary to give the color, firmness and other properties desired. 

A distinct tannage of limited use is the oil tannage used 
for making some glove leathers, particularly chamois and 
Buckskin. Cod oil is the oil commonly used. Its oxidation 
tans the leather. 

The object of tanning is to coat the fibers of the leather 
with some insoluble material so as to prevent their decay. 
The mineral and vegetable materials and oils used for tan- 
ning are made to permeate the leather and coat each fiber to 
accomplish this purpose. 



Methods of Finishing 



3. Leather may be fin- 
ished on the grain or hair 
on the flesh ^ ; de, or on a split surface made bv splitting 
the leather into two thicknesses. These three primary meth- 
ods are given as follows with subdivisions and examples from 
the specimens. 



I JsP« ^' Shoes are the most important use for leather 
and after them gloves, harness, bags, cases, belting, 
upholsterv. bookbinding, strans, and various novelties and 
articles .,i common use. The purpose for which a leather is 
intended will determine the raw material, tannage, and 
method of finishing. 



I. 



Grain Finish. 

1. 



Full or natural grain. 

1 color of the tannage. Russet Col- 
lar. 

olored both sides by drum dyeing. 
Chrome Veals, Capeskins. 

or brush colored — one side. Colored 
Glace' Glove leathers. 

d. Drum dyed, seasoned, and glazed. Glazed 
leathers. 

e. Hand-boarded after process b, c, or d. 
Boarded Veals, Morocco. 

f. Embossed after process b or c. Bag 
leathers. 

g. Enamelled or japanned. Patent shoe leath- 
ers. 



2. Grain buffed. (Snuffed.) 

a. Smooth finish. Snuffed Chrome Kip, Kan- 
garoo Sides, Harness. 

b. Velvet finish. Mocha, Buckskin, Buffed 
Horse. 

c. Enamelled. Grain shaved off. Hand Buffed 
Upholstery. 

II. Flesh Finish. 

1. Smooth. Cordovan, Wax Calf. 

2. Velvet finish. Suede or Ooze Leather. 

III. Split Surface Finish. 

1. Smooth. Flexible Splits. 

2. Velvet finish. Chamois, Chrome Side Splits. 

3. Enamelled and embossed. Machine and Deep 
Buffed Upholstery. 

Embossing by flat plate or steel roller allows of great 
variety and imitation in the surface appearance of leather. 
Sheepskin, for example, may be made to look like seal or 
alligator bv phot- 'graphing the seal or alligator grain and 
etching i. j S. licals on the embossing plate or roller 
which is passed over the skin and prints the etched grain 
on it with the aid of heat and pressure. 



^rklif finer Hirloe The manner in which hides are 

fcjpilllUlg 1 HUC5 spHt intQ thicknesses t0 make sev . 

eral pieces of leather deserves some explanation. For sole, 
harness, and belting the whole thickness of the cowhide is 
used. The lighter skins as goatskins and coltskins are not 
split, but are shaved down to an even thickness all over. 
The heavier calfskins have a light split taken off the thicker 
parts by a knife blade splitting machine. This split is fin- 
ished like sample No. 8, p. 5. Sheepskins are used full thick- 
ness or split into two thicknesses for gloves and bookbind- 
ing. For examples of the upper and lower splits see p. 6, 
No. 4, and p. 5, No. 7. Cowhides for shoe upper, book- 
binding upholstery, bag leathers, etc., are split into two or 
more thicknesses. The belt-knife splitting machine used is 
regulated to make the grain or upper split any desired 
thickness from the thin paper-like buffing p. 6, No. 6, to 
the heavy waterproof shoe leather p. 2, No. 9. Shoe leathers 
are usually split into two thicknesses only, the flesh split 
being used for the leathers shown on p. 3, No. 10, p. 4, No. 6, 
p. 5, No. 8. 



Atachine Eu/fed 




UeepBe///eef 








*SeconcfjSpf/t 










£/ab. 







Upholstery leathers are split into three to five thicknesses. 
The illustration represents the order in which the splits 
come and is drawn to convey the fact that successive splits 
fall short of the original area of the hide because the hide 
is thickest in the center and lightest along the flanks. The 
buffing is a very thin grain split used for bookbinding, p. 6, 
No. 6. The three following splits are used for upholstery, 
p. 7, Nos. 3, 4. The "slab" makes a very cheap leather for 
various uses. The thickness of the splits varies according 
to the demands of the trade. 

For a more complete description of tanning processes 
than given in this book, the reader is referred to "How 
Leather Is Tanned," a pamphlet issued free D'yThe publishers 
of this book, or to the various books on tanning and leather 
manufacture to be found in public libraries. 






Leather in Process of Tanning 

(Shoe Leather). 



1 



1. Dry Calfskin 

Hides and skins usually come to (he 
tannery either wet -suited or dry, This 
is a piece of dry calf skin which comes 
spread flat and tied in bales. When 
taken from the animal it was hung up 
in the sun till dry. It must be soaked 
till soft before it can be worked. 




2. Pickled Calfskin 
(Grain Side) 

This skin after washing, and having 
the hair and flesh removed, was 
pickled in salt, sulphuric acid, and 
water. This "pickle" thoroughly 
cleanses the skin, opens up the pores, 
and gets it into an acid state ready for 
chrome tanning. 



3. Chrome Tanned 
Calfskin (Grain Side) 

The same skin after tanning. The 
chrome liquor give's the skin a light 
bluish-green color throughout. The 
"Grain" side is the side on which the 
hair grew. Most shoe upper leathers 
are chrome-tanned. 




4» Vegota < 

Cowhide (Grain Side) 

Tanned in Hemlock bark liquor. 
The vegetable tannins give a reddish 
or yellow color to the skin. Note 
coarser grain of the cowhide due to 
larger hairs. 




5. Chrome Calfskin 
Flesh Side — Unshaved 

This shows the flesh side of No. 3 
after tanning. There art? still some 
shreds of flesh on it. 




. J... - ' - 






6. Chrome Calfskin 
Flesh Side Shaved 

This shows No. 5 after it has been 
shaved on flesh side by the shaving 
machine and the thicker parts split off 
by the splitting machine. 



Chrome Split 
Split Side 



The skin from which this sample 
was taken has been split into two 
thicknesses. 1 he lower or flesh split, 
with surface along which skin was 
split is shown. The under side of this 
sample is the flesh side; Grain splits 
are known as "Grains'" and flesh splits 
as "Splits" in the trade. ' 




8. Chrome Split 
Fat-liquored 

This shows No 7 after it has been 
"fat -liquored" or drummed in an 
emulsion of oil and soap. It is now 
leather. The natural oils of the skin 
were removed by liming to loosen ihe 
hair and the tanned skins must be fat- 
liquored to restore their life and soft- 
ness. 




9. Chrome Calf 
Fat-liquored and Dyed Black 

This shows-No.Vfr fat-liquored and 
dyed black. The dyeing was done in 
a drum in which the skins were rolled 
with a solution of logwood crystals or 
black aniline dyes in water. 



10. Chrome Calf 

Fat-liquored and Dyed Brown 

This shows NorVk dyed brown .for 
tan leathers. Dyed with fustic and 
aniline dyestuffs in a drum. Skins to 
be dyed on one side only are brushed 
or sponged over with the dye on the 
grain side on a table, called brush or 
table coloring. 



1 1 . Glazed Chrome Calf 

A polishing mixture consisting of 
albumen, shellac, a black dye, and 
other materials was sponged over this 
skin and it was then "glazed" or 
rubbed mechanically with a glass cyl- 
inder to bring up a polish. This gives 
a permanent finish. This skin is now 
ready for making into shoes. 



12. Vegetable-Tanned 
Cowhide. Natural Finish 

This is No. 4 finished in the natural 
color of the tannage without dyes for 
horse cdllar leather. The surface col- 
or of leather, unless natural finish, 
does not indicate the tannage as both 
chrome and vegetable-tanned leathers, 
are finished black, tan or other colors, 
and dull or bright. 



Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. 



t 



. 



Shoe Upper Leathers No, 1 



(Calf and Cowhide) 





1. Glazed Chrome Calf 

A high grade black calf leather for 
fine shoes. Chrome-tanned. Glazed 
finish. Note the fine, smooth calf 
grain. Chrome tanning gives the 
softest and strongest leather. 



2. Russia Calf 

A high grade colored calf. Tanned 
with Gambler, Quebracho or other 
vegetable tannins. The vegetable 

■tannage gives a fuller and more por- 
ous leather than the chrome. Birch 

--oH gives it the ""Russia" odor. It was 
originally tanned in Russia with birch 
bark. 




3. Suede Calf 

Skin Of a very young calf finished 
on the flesh side by holding this side 
against an abrasive wheel to raise a 
fine nap. Worn fie-' iide out for 
ladies 1 shoes. Chrome tanned and 
very soft. Sheepskin is also treated 
this way. Calf makes the best suede - 
leather for fineness and durability. 



4, White Buffed Ca!f 

Tanned in Alum and Chrome. Alum 
gives a white tannage. Buffed on grain 
by holding it against an emery wheel. 
This removes small defects in the 
grain and gives the leather a soft fin- 
ish. It should be distinguished from 
suede calf which is finished on the 
flesh side. Dusted with fine talcum 
and brushed. 




ooeraea Chrome 
Veals 

Made from a large (15-25 lb.) calf- 
skin from animal that has had good 
care and been protected in cold 
Weather. Fine grain but not as fine as 
smaller calfskins. Heavier and larger 
skin. Glazed and hand boarded by 
rolling grain over on itself to make a 
square pattern. Used for shoes or 
1 ■ . ■ 



6. Col'd. Chrome Veals 



Same class of skin as No. 5, calf 
about a year old. Chrome tanned, 
dyed brown, and finished dull for 
outing boots. A very strong, service- 
able leather. 



Snuiied Chrome Kip 

Kips are coarser skins than veals 
due to an older or poorer fed animal 
(giass fed). The grain*of this sample 
was scratched or defective so top of 
it was snuffed off by holding grain 
side against an abrasive wheel. 
Sponged over with black dye and fin- 
ished dull. Makes a durable shoe 
leather. Snuffed calf and sides are 
also common. 



Black Chrome Sides 



Chrome-tanned hide of a young cow 
or steer. Called "Sides" because the 
hide is divided along the middle of the 
back into two sides on account of size. 
Coarser grain than any of the preced- 
ing, but wears just as well. Finished 
like No. 1. Cowhides are too thick 
for shoe uppers so are split into two 
thicknesses and flesh side used for 
something else. 




Chrome Waterproof 
Sides 



Split into a heavier grain than No. 8 
and stuffed with grease to make the 
leather as nearly waterproof as possi- 
ble. Brush-colored black on grain 
and "pebbled" to make a pattern on 
grain. Natural chrome color on und- 
er or split side. Used for lumbermen's 
and other heavy shoes. 



Kangaroo Sides 



Cowhide tanned with Hemlock and 
other vegetable, tannins. Part of the 
'grain has been "buffed" off or re- 
moved by hand with a special sharp 
blade. Hand boarded. Used for work 
shoes. 



Smoked Elk Sides 



A soft chrome-tanned cow or' steer 
hide for work or athletic shoes. Very 
strong and tough and stays soft. Hung 
in a smoke-house to give it a color, 
imitating the Indian tannage. Called 
"Elk" because supposed to resemble 
Elk skin in appearance. Made in black 
and colors. Real Elkskin is tanned for 
very heavy gloves for foundry work. 



Chrome Retanned 
Sides 



A side leather in combination of 
chrome and vegetable tannages to give 
it strength, softness, and resistance to 
"barnyard acids. Boarded and brush 
colored on the grain. Hand-buffed 
like No. lO. Stuffed with greases. For 
use in heavy work and farm shoes. 




Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis, 



Shoe Upper Leathers No. 2 



Miscellaneous Skins 



3 





1., Black Glazed Kid 

Goat*! '■? ■"'irome-tanned and glazed 
to a hi^;. i'i Note the character- 

istic grain ai,, 

goat's hair. Ma.. _ .; n^',it t c« 
able shoe, sofier and more porous than 
calf. Few real Kidskins are used for 
shoes as they are too small and light. 
The chrome tannage, now by far the 
most generally used tannage for shoe 
upper leathers, came into commercial 
use with cfr r 1 nT"H , - :j -*----* 



2. Colored Glazed Kid 

Goatskin, chrome-tanned and 
ghized-l Glazed kid lends itself to dye- 
ing in a great variety of delicate and 
beautiful colors for ladies' shoes. The 
white are tanned with alum in addi- 
tion as alum is necessary to give a 
white leather. Goatskins for glazed 
kid are imported from all over the 
world. 



3. Mat Cabretia 

The Cabretta is a cross between a 
shtfi p i:' ^ goat and its leather par- 
takes of the character ol b.ot.I^ It 
comes from South America chiefly, 
Very common is a dull or "mat" fin- 
ish for tops of patent leather and other 
shoes. Chrome-tanned. 



4. Chrome Sheep 

Domestic sheepskin, chrome- 
tanned. This sample has been finished 
di on ; he grain. It is also made wilh 
a- glazed finish. The grain is rather 
different than that of glazed kid. Used 
for shoe linings, baby shoes, and many 
other purposes. It is cheaper than 
goatskin and is loo porous and lack- 
ing in "strength and stability for shoe 
vamps. 




Glazed Kangaroo 



'he Australian Kangaroo. 
Chroi.. i ined and glazed th« same 
as glazed kid. Kangaroo leather is 
tough and supple, does i peel, and 
keeps out water well, h is a lather 
scarce and expensive leather used for 
high grade shoes. 



6. Glazed Coit 



Chrome- tanned coltskin or horse- 
front, (Front part of a horse hide). A 
very strong, durable shoe leather used 
for medium grade shoes. Tanned and 
finished like glazed kid or calf. 



7. Patent Colt 

Coltskin or horsefront. Russia has 
been the chief source of supply for 
colt-skin; and fine horsefronts. 
Chroi a J. T1 "■ -en 

varnish - ' .. . u prcf 1 

from boiled fin ei ■ oil and guncotton 
and then baked on in ovens. The hard 
inelastic finish makes this leather un- 
certain in wear, but its luster cannot 
be equalled. Patent leather is also 
made from cowhide, goatskins, etc. 




8. Cordovan 



Horse butt (rear part of horsehideO 
tanned with gam bier and other vege- 
table tannins. Colored in black, Ian, 
etc. and finished on the flesh side. A 
lose waterproof leather because 
of ihe impermeable shell in this part of 
the horsehide. Used in high grade 
men's shoes. It is expensive and is 
imitated in calf and sides. Derives its 
name from Cordova, Spain, where it 
was first made. 



9. Wax Calf 



Calfskin finished on flesh side as 
wax or "French 1 ' calf. Tanned with 
chrome and vegetable tannins or with 
vegetable tannins only. Finished on 
flesh side by "waxing" with a mixture 
of lamp black, waxes, flour, oil, soap, 
glue, etc. An excellent wearing 
leather and was the earliest method of 
finishing calfskins. It has now been 
mostly superseded by the grain fin- 
ishes. 



Wax Flesh Split 



The flesh or under split from a cow- 
hide, the upper or grain split being 
used for cowhide grain leather. 
Tanned in hemlock bark liquor. Fin- 
ished with a "paste" on flesh side sim- 
ilar to wax calf. Makes a cheap shoe 
leather. 



11. Buffed Sides 



Cowhide finished to resemble buck- 
skin. The whi usually tunned 
with chrome ami alum, the c aed 
wil l 1 only. The grain has been 
held aguinsl an emery wheel and part- 
ly buffed off, leaving a velvety nap. 
This should be distinguished from 
suede leather which is finished on (he 
flesh side. Dyed in various shades. 



Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis, 



12. Buckskin 

Made 1 from deerskins imported from 
f Mexico and South America. Former- 
ly a pure oil-tanned leather. Now 
alum is emploved in addition. The 
while is tajlned chiefly with alum as 
■ ' luces a white leather. The 

lias been buffed on an emery 
w heel, The color is brushed over the 
grain side on a table. On account of 
its scarcity and expensiveness buck* 
skin is imitated very largely in buffed 
sides. 



Sole, Harness, and Belting Leathers 



mmmmmmammmm 

1. Chrome Sole 

In sole leather the full thickness of 
cattle hides is used. Chrome-tanned 
sole is the strongest and lightest sole 
leather. It is slippery and porous and 
has a rough edge. Sometimes stuffed 
with grease to make waterproof. Used 
chiefly in outing and athletic shoes. 




2. Oak Sole 



Tanned with liquor or extract of 
oak: bark. This is the best bark -tanned 
sole leather. Used for men's fine shoes 
and more used by repairers than any 
other sole leather. Can be sewed or 
nailed. 



Union Sole 



Hemlock Sole 



Tanned with a combination of hem- 
lock and oak bark liquors or extracts. 
Not quite as firm as Oak sole. Used 
for women's shoes and the better 
grades for men's shoes. Sews well. 
Varies m color according to propor- 
tions of oak and hemlock used. 



Tanned with Hemlock bark liquor. 
A firmer leather than oak or union, 
Used for medium price men's shoes 
and work shoes, chieflv nailed work. 
Used also by repairers, especially for 
heel top lifts. Cheaper than oak or 
union. 




The hide comes from the true Buffa- 
lo of Asia and the East Indies. H<m- 
lo-'k tannage. Coarser and more por- 
ous than cowhide. Used for heavy 
nailed shoes. 



The under or flesh split from a cow- 
hide. Tanned first in chrome, then in 
hemlock bark liquor. A firm leather 
used for inner soles. 



Pigskiri tanned in bark or chrome 
and bark liquors and used for inner 
soles. Comes in strips taken off the 
loin. T he grain is very noticeable. 
Sometimes the grain is split off for 
pocketbook leather, etc. and tht flesh 
split is used for inner soles. 



Razor Strop Butt 



Made from horse butt (rear end of 
horse hide) tanned first in chrome, 
then in a vegetable liquor. Grain 
partly buffed off by holding against an 
emery wheel. Fat liquored to render 
it pliable. Cowhide tanned and fin- 
ished . much the same way is used 
for soles. 



"swr 



9. Belting Leather 

Cow or steer hide tanned like Oak 
Sole with perhaps an addition of gam- 
bier or other vegetable tannins to 
. make it softer. After tanning Belting 
Leather is stuffed with greases and 
worked over to render it pliable. 



10. Russet Collar. 

Hemlock bark tannage, natural fin- 
ish. From a cow or steer hide split to 
a lighter weight than harness leather. 
Used for horse collars. It is also fin- 
ished in black. The russet finish is 
also used for welting in shoes. 



11. 



Chrome Lace 
Leather 



Chrome-tanned hide of a young cow 
or year old calf. A strong, durable 
leather with dyed finish. Used for 
saddlery laces. Raw-hide lace leather 
is tanned with oils or fats and alum. 



12. Union Harness 

Tanned with a combination of oak 
and hemlock bark liquors or extracts. 
The whole thickness of a cow or steer 
hide is used. Stuffed with greases to 
render it pliable. The grain is partly 
removed by hand and then blacked 
and brushed. Used for harnesses. 



Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, WU, 



Glove Leathers 





r 



1. Glace Kid 

Kidskin, alum-tanned in France. 
The most desirable real kidskins are 
the "French National Skins". Glace" 
Kid gloves are usually imported due to 
the tariff on the leather, Glace" Kid 
makes the finest and most durable 
dress gloves, known as Real Kid 
gloves to distinguish them from lamb- 
skin gloves commonly called Kid 
gloves. White js the natural color of 
the alum tannage. Tan or black kid 
is made by brushing dyes over the 
grain side. 



5. Buckskin 

Deerskin from Mexico, Central or 
South America. Oil tanned. The skins 
are stuffed with cod oil and worked 
and then hung up rill the oil has tanned 
the leather. Bui fed on the grain like 
Mochas and table-colored. The pelts 
are heavy and in the full thickness are 
made into utility gloves. For light 
weight gloves the leather is split to the 
required thickness. Buckskin makes 
a warm, durable, high grade glove. 



2. urarce x&frib 

Made from fine European lambskins. 
Tanned with alum and imported in 
the tinished state. Tin- heavier skins 
are used fo* men's and the lighter for 
women's fine gloves, white qr colored 
on lh»- grain. Glace" lamb loot much 
like Glac6 Kid but has not as much 
strength. Glace" leathers are finished 
with the grain surface on. The grain 
is rubbed with a plush wheel after ap- 
plying wax or talcum. Lambskin is 
used for most of the "Kid" gloves on 
the market. 




6. Suede Lambskin 

Domestic lairibskin, chrome-tanned. 
Fin :;hed On the flesh side by holding 
thi^ side against an emery wheel till a 
smooth, velv ;ly nap is raised- Used 
for medium price gloves. Domestic 
lamb or sheepskins have a coarser 
grain than the imported and in a grain 
finish are used for utility and work 
gloves. Lamb and sluvpskiss with 
fine, soft woo] yield inferior glove 
i leath- 
rues irtiOS anim i a hairy 



3. Capeskin 

Capeskin first came from the Cap6 
of Good Hope district. Now lamb- 
skins from many countries are also 
used, some of the finest coming from 
Russia. The best skins have a hairy 
or wiry wool, the U i \*ure of the skin 
being -between i! of a sheep and a 
gout. Phe sluus art large and heavy 
co m pared with the preceding. 
ChrOme-tanned and washable. "Dip- 
ped" or dyed in a drum. Used for the 
better and medium price dress and 
street gloves. 



7. Chamois 

Made from flesh splits of sheepskins. 
Named after .the Chamois Goat of 
Switzerland. Tanned chiefly with cod 
oil. Alum in the white and chrome 
in the colored are also used. The best 
skins are selected for the cheaper suede 
gloves, and are buffed and dyed. The 
other skins are used for chamois vests, 
polishing cloths, etc. Chamois leath- 
er is washable with soap and water. 
Tt is largely used to imitate doeskin. 
The real.doeskins are similar to buck- 
skins bu) Ught#j; ir- weiidu ■"■-.,..■—■„. 




Buffed Horse 



Front part of a horsehide. Chrome- 
tanned. Buffed on the grain and dyed 
and table colored. Made into heavy 
gloves for driving, utility wear, etc, 
A very soft and strong leather. 



10. Grain Horse 



Same class of hide as No. 8, chrome- 
tanned and finished with the full grain. 
Table-colored. Used for automobile 
gauntlets and work gloves. -Very 
strong and durable. South American 
sheep are tanned and colored the same 
way to make a lealher of very similar 
appearance. The sheep makes a 
cheaper and less durable glove. Dog- 
skins are also dressed in this manner 
for utility gloves. 



Pigskin 



Domestic pigskin, chrome-tanned 
and finished in the natural chrome 
color as in this specimen or dyed yel- 
low. Makes a strong, soft leather for 
work gloves. The grain is character- 
istically coarse and porous. 



4. Undressed Mocha 

.Skin of the hair sheep of Arabia, 
Persia, and Northeast Africa. Derives 
its name from the seaport of Mocha, 
Arabia. Alum tanned and treated with 
salt, egg yolks, flour, and olive oil. 
Because of imperfections the grain is 
friezed or buffed by holding it against 
a fine emerv wheel to raise a soft nap. 
''Dipped" or dyed in a drum to color 
both sides. Mochas are very durable 
and go into the finest of undressed 
gloves. They are an American inven- 
tion. 




8. Chrome Side Split 

The under or flesh split of a cow- 
hide. Chrome-tanned. Buffed on the 
split side. Used for cheap work gloves 
and shoe gussets and as a facing for the 
palms and fingers of canvas gloves. 
Dyed in many shades or used in the 
natural chrome color. A cheap and 
durable leather. 



12. Peccary 



Skin of the peccary, a kind of wild 
j>ig of Mexico and South. Chrome- 
tanned and dyed. It is a heavy skin 
with very coarse grain. Used for 
working gloves and gauntlets where 
strength and softness are needed. 



Copyright 1917 by Pfjyjer & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. 






s 



Fancy Leathers No; 1 

Bookbinding and Light Leathers 



6 





1. Morocco Goat 

Goatskin tanned with sumac, the 
genuine Morocco tannage which 
withstands light and decay the best 
and makes the highest grade book- 
binding leather, also used for hand- 
bags, etc. Colored, embossed and 
hand boarded. India goat and sheep 
are used as substitutes for Morocco 
goat and resemble it closely though 
the sheep especially is less durable. 
Morocco sealskins are also made. 
Morocco is so called because first 
made by the Moors. 



2, Bock (India Sheep) 

Sheepskin bark -tanned in India, re- 
tanned herewith sumac. India-tanned 
sheep and goat skins make a durable, 
soft leather, and are embossed in many 
patterns. The heavy skins are used for 
bags anjd casefe and (he light for book- 
binding, novelties, shoe tops, etc. The 
sample shown is a typical bookbind- 
ing leather. "Bock" is Hindu for goat 
leather, used, however, for India 
Sheep. India Goat is rather more 
durable than the sheep. 




5. Red Russia Calf 

(Light Diced Calf) 

Calfskin tanned with hemlock, que- 
bracho, or other vegetable tannins. 
Embossed with crossed lines and 
glazed. Used largely for pocket and 
memorandum books. A leather of 
fine quality and quile expensive. 
Russia Calf is so called because first 
tanned in Russia with birch bark. The 
odor of this tannage is now duplicated 
in any tannage by spraying birch oil 
?n Ihe trrnn 



6. Buffing 



A thin grain split from a cowhide, 
(see P. 7, No. .*.) Tanned wilh sumac 
or sumac in combination with other 
vegetable tannins. Dyed and em- 
bossed with a "straight grain" 'pattern 
of parallel lines I. Used for books, 
novelties, etc.' Buffings are frequent- 
ly embossed with seal, morocco and 
other grains for pocket books, cases, 
etc. 




3. Spanish Goat 

Goatskin tanned with alum and 
gambier. The "Spanish" grain is pro- 
duced as follows: A brown, green or 
other paint is br-'^hed over the grain. 
When this is dry the skin is wrinkled. 
A black or oilier dork paint is then ap- 
plied so as to fill in the creases. This 
forms ihe irregular colorpattern. Used 
for books, novelties, upholstery, etc. 
This same "Spanish" grain is also made 
in sheep, cowhide, and cowhide splits, 
chiefly for furniture use. 



4. Skiver 

The grain split of a sheepskin. The 
flesh splits used for Chamois. Tanned 
usually with sumac. A pattern has 
been embossed on the grain. Dyed 
and finished for pocket books or 
cheap bookbinding. Made in plain 
finish for hat sweatbands. It is thin 
and has little strength, but can be fin- 
ished in many brilliant colors and em- 
bossed in a> great variety of patterns. 




7. Book Binding Sides 
Cross Grain 

Cowhide tanned with oak and hem- 
lock bark liquors. Split to various 
weights. Much thicker and more 
substantial than the Buffing, This 
sample was boarded or grained in two 
directions to give a cross pattern. Al- 
so comes embossed with a Seal Grain 
for music rolls, bags, etc. 



8. Morocco Grain 
Cowhide 

Cowhide, vegetable tannage, brush 
colored on the grain and embossed 
with a Morocco grain in imitation of 
the Morocco Goat. It is also Quite 
commonly embossed with a Seal 
grain. Used for small bags, novelties, 
and bookbinding. *, 



9. Law Sheep 

Sheepskin tanned with quebracho 
with perhaps other vegetable tannins. 
Finished on grain in ihe natural color 
of the tannage. Used fox law books 
and other books and novelties. The 
same style of leather is also made from 
Skivers, lambskins and calf. 



10. Suede or Ooze Sheep 11- White Alum Sheep 



Sheepskin chrome-tanned and dyed 
in various colors. Finished on flesh 
side against an emery wheel to raise a 
smooth velvety nap. Used for bags, 
pocket books, book covers, etc. Also 
called moleskin from having a soft nap 
like the fur of a mole. . 



Sheepskin tanned with alum. Used 
for novelties, souvenir book covers, 
dance programs, etc. Finished on (he 
grain. This class of sheep leather 
comes in a great variety of tints in the 
chrome tannage. The White Alum is 
also finished on the flesh like Suede 
Sheep. 



12. PI>skin 

Pigskin fanned with quebracho and 
finished in the natural color of the 
tannage. It comes dyed in various 
colors also. Used for bookbinding, 
pocket books, etc. Makes a strong, 
durable leather of coarse and porous 
grain. The grain pattern closely re- 
sembles that of the human skin. 



Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. 



\ 



Fancy Leathers 

Upholstery and Heavy Leathers 




spams 
Upholstery 

Cowhide tanned with a combina- 
tion Of bark and other vegetable tan- 
nins as hemlock, oak, quebracho, etc. 
Has the full grain of the hide and is the 
best class of upholstery leather. Used 
for leather chairs, etc. Finished with 
a paint made chiefly of linseed oil and 
a pigment which is brushed on (he 
grain and allowed to dry. For the 
name and process see P. 6, No, 3. 



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2. Hand Buffed 
Upholstery 

Tanned like Spanish Grain. The 
grain has been partly removed on a 
shaving machine. Several coats of a 
paint or daub finish of the desired col- 
or are then brushed on. Each coat is 
baked on in turn and before the last 
coat the surface is pumraiced smooth. 
This process produces a lustrous and 
durable enamel finish. This specimen 
was then embossed in a "straight 
grain" pattern. 



3. Machine Buffed 
' Upholstery 

The grain of this leather has been 
split off very thin on a splitting mach- 
ine, and makes the cowhide buffing 
for books, etc. (see P. 6, No. 6) The 
surface made by splitting off the grain 
is finished as in the Hand Buffed. Used 
for medium price automobiles and 
for furniture. 




4. Deep 

Upholstery 



A heavy grain split which may have 
been any one of the three preceding 
has been taken off and the flesh split 
shown finished like the two previous 
samples and embossed. This is uphol- 
stery leather considerably cheaper 
than the preceding. Below the Deep 
Buffed a second split" is taken off 
and finished the same way, but is not 
as strong or durable. Upholstery hides 
veld three to five splits. 




5. Case Leather 



Cowhide tanned in hemlock and 
oak bark liquors. Dyed and glazed 
smooth on grain. Used for suit cases 
and in the heavier thicknesses for tra- 
veling bags. The flesh side has been 
split off and made into insole splits. 
The brown or tan shade is most com- 
mon for suit cases and the black for 
bags. ' • 



Strap Leather 



Cowhide tanned like case leather 
and split to a heavier weight. Used for 
suit case straps. Comes in various 
thicknesses, the heavier being used for 
trunk straps, arch supports, and lamb's 
wool soles. 



7. Boarded Belt 



Cowhide, bark -tanned, and split. 
Made soft for tubular belts. Boarded 
by rolling grain over on itself to give 
square pattern when dfcne in two 
directions. Belt leather is also made 
the same as strap leather split thin, 
and sometimes buffed on the grain for 
either smooth or velvet finish. 




8. Crepe Grain Cowhide 

Cowhide tanned with hemlock and 
oak bark. Table : colored on grain 
and embossed with a pattern known 
as "Crepe Grain". Used for traveling 
bags and novelties. Cowhide for bags 
is embossed in various patterns or 
comes smooth. Smooth leather bags 
of the best kind are made from the 
Boarded Veals I shown on page 2) or 
from Russia Veals (similar to Russia 
Calf, page 2, ) known as Call bags. 



9. Seal 



Skin of (he hair seal, tanned with 
gambier and other vegetable tannins. 
Used tor ladies' hand bags, novelties, 
bookbinding, etc. This specimen 
known as Pin Seal shows the natural 
grain of seal after boarding. The finest 
skins are selected and are split to a 
light weight. Other skins are em- 
bossed and boarded to raise the grain 
known as Seal Grain shown in No. 11. 
This grain is popular in bags, and is 
imitated in sheep, goat and cowhide, 
less expensive and less durable. 



10. Walrus 



Sealskin of a much larger and 
coarser grain than the preceding. The 
deep ridges are caused by allowing 
the skin to shrink in the course of tan- 
ning. By genuine walrus is meant 
sealskin shrunk to make the so-called 
walrus grain. This leather is used for 
bags, men's belts, etc., and is imitated 
in cowhide, goatskin, and splits. Real 
walrus is a much heavier skin, about 
V/i in. thick, and is us,ed by the jewel- 
ry trade for polishing purposes. 



Seal Grain Goat 




India - fanned goatskin embossed 
with a seal grain. (See under India 
Sheep.) Used for baas, -lovelties and 
book-binding. Cheaper it. n seaiikin. 
Some sheep leather is also used for 
bags embossed with a seal or other 
grains. Linings of traveling bags are 
often made of sheepskin finished nat- 
ural color or in various colors. 



12. Alligator 



Skin of the alligator of Florida and 
tropical America. The smooth part 
shown comes from the belly and sides, 
the horny part seen on bags from the 
back. Vegetable tannage. Used for 
bags and novelties. Its peculiar grain 
is imitated in sheepskin by embossing. 



Copyright 1917 by Pfister Ac Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis, 










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